Wake-up call
Mergers and acquisitions in the natural foods business
by Trudy Bialic, Editor

Gene Kahn of Small Planet Foods |
A PCC member called the other day, upset when she learned a favorite
frozen fruit wasn't provided any longer by "a small, local organic
company" but now comes to her from a large national brand. She was
dismayed by this buyout of a local label and thanked PCC for stocking
an alternative brand, a fruit "in transition" to organic certification
direct from a local family operation.
She wants to use her food dollars to support locally owned organic
farms, especially family farms. She raised concerns about food
security. Who's taking over the labels I've come to trust? What does
this mean for me as a consumer? Can I trust it?
In searching for answers, Gene Kahn's name came to mind. He knows a
lot about this subject from first hand experience. Kahn is President
and Chief Executive Officer of Small Planet Foods, based in Sedro
Woolley, Washington. Kahn also is a Vice President
of General Mills, Inc., since General Mills purchased Small Planet
Foods one year ago.
Kahn laughs, reminiscing about when he first started running Cascadian
Farm in the '70s. He recalls driving an old Volkswagen bus, full of
corn on the cob and strawberries, to meet Randy Lee at PCC (today, Lee
is PCC's Chief Financial Officer and Acting Co-CEO).
Kahn says, "When I started selling Cascadian Farm products to PCC in
1972 and drove the VW to Randy, our goal was to commercialize and
mainstream organic farming. We envisioned thousands of acres converted
to organic production. What's happening today is a reflection of our
success, not our failure!"
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The Labels and Who Owns Them
Lightlife now owned by ConAgra, one of the largest if
not the largest food company in the United States
Knudsen, After the Fall and Santa Cruz Organics
all were bought by Smuckers years ago.
Hain and Celestial Seasonings are now called the
Hain-Celestial group and includes the Earth's Best, Arrowhead Mills,
Westbrae, Deboles, Garden of Eatin', Terra Chips, Little Bear,
BreadShop and Health Valley labels Heinz owns a major stake of
the Hain-Celestial group.
Kashi was bought by Kellogg's.
Balance Bar is now owned by Kraft, which is owned by Phillip
Morris.
Silk is partly owned by Dean Foods, one of the largest dairy
companies in America.
Boca Burger is owned by Oscar Meyer/Kraft, which is owned by
Phillip Morris.
The Mt. Sun juice company is owned by a venture group.
Fantastic Foods and Annie's Homegrown are partly owned
by a venture fund.
Morningstar Farms, Natural Touch and Loma Linda
are all part of Worthington Foods, which was bought by Kellogg's.
Horizon is partly owned by Suiza, a huge dairy conglomerate.
Seeds of Change is now owned by Mars, Incorporated.
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The Cascadian Farm label is part of Small Planet Foods, which also
owns Muir Glen. Previously, since 1990, Cascadian Farm was owned by
Welch's National Grape Cooperative. "That means," says Kahn, "for the
past ten years, Cascadian Farm and Muir Glen are companies that have
been owned by 'corporate America'." In '96, Small Planet was sold, in
part, to Roy Disney's private investment fund. Then General Mills
bought it. Kahn says, "During this 10-year period, our commitment to
organic has only increased. Our products contain more certified
organic ingredients than ever before. Unlike many other companies in
our industry, our products have been certified organic since the
mid-70s."
A natural evolution
The Small Planet/General Mills marriage is an example of what's
happening across the natural foods business. Natural and organic foods
are the fastest growing part of the grocery industry. The big
companies want a share of the receipts.
Major food companies are moving into our business natural and
organic foods not to change it or the nature of the products
says Kahn, but simply to participate in the fastest growing sector of
the food industry.
"The purchasing companies are reluctant," he says, "to mess around
with the product. General Mills would be loath to change anything
about Small Planet that would lead to the loss of our identity,
culture or organic emphasis." Why? "Because it would depreciate the
value of its investment. It would be in defiance of the reason they
made the investment in the first place. It's internal
protection. Additionally, General Mills supports the organic industry
and believes in its future."
As someone who's been through the changes, Kahn says the benefits of
support from a big company are substantial. "Increased financial
flexibility. More money for capital improvements. Better pay and
benefits for our staff," he says. "At the same time, we're able to
improve our farming systems and improve research and development in
organic horticulture."
"With the exception of PCC, all the businesses of the original Seattle
Cooperating Community (an alliance of worker and consumer
cooperatives) of the 1970s have been privatized. That's why PCC is
still unique. In general, the businesses have been privatized to
survive. We need to be able to compete in a very competitive
atmosphere that makes mergers and acquisitions inevitable."
"Back in the '70's when the co-op community was operating, we never
thought this consolidation would happen. We thought consumers would be
intimately concerned about the welfare of workers. We called ourselves
wage slaves and believed that consumers would be so inspired, they'd
never buy anywhere other than at co-ops. It's still important to some
consumers, but not all."
"The point is that many leading brands have roots in, or are
wholly-owned by, major corporations or major investment
organizations. The days when we could compete in the marketplace
independently, especially in the natural foods business the dynamics
have changed."
"If you hate big business, you're going to hate any and all major
natural food companies. That includes retailers, distributors and
manufacturers. If you have a real anti-business bias, there are no
words to console you."
"But, understand that this is a success story. People here at
Cascadian Farm and Small Planet Foods are celebrating. They're making
real-world wages. They used to be volunteers!"
True to the ideals of the '70s, Kahn and his team are tilling their
success back into the soil where the dream took root. "Another thing
I've been able to do as a result of mainstreaming our products into
the market is to convert thousands and thousands of acres into
certified organic production.
"I'm still a farmer at heart and Small Planet Foods continues to be a
strong supporter of locally-owned organic farms. The vast majority of
the organic vegetables and fruits in Cascadian Farm and Muir Glen
products are grown by family farmers in Washington, Oregon and
California. Our strong partnerships with family farmers is what allows
us to provide great organic products to our customers," says Kahn.
Kahn believes we'll continue seeing more rapid consolidations of
retailers, brokers, distributors and manufacturers. "The idea of
challenging that development is futile," he says. "But we need to make
sure that these stakeholders continue to play by the rules and meet
the highest levels of integrity in how they approach this unique
opportunity in food production."
"We also need to support small scale farmers wherever we can. Farmers
markets, CSAs* and roadside farm sales are all good examples of viable
small scale enterprises that need consumer support."
*CSAs are community supported agricultural programs. Residents or
participants pay a farmer in advance for a share of a
harvest. Shareholders in turn receive fresh produce throughout the
growing season. Dungeness Farm in Sequim and Full Circle Farm in North
Bend both have active CSA programs.