Smoky Black Bean Soup

Pick over beans; rinse well. Place in a large bowl with cold water to cover by 2 inches. Let soak for at least 6 hours or overnight. Drain.

Heat oil in a soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add all but 1⁄3 cup of the onions, bell pepper, celery, jalapeño and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Add cumin and cook, stirring, 1 minute more. Add the beans, water, coffee, ham (if using) and bay leaf; cover and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Skim off any foam that rises to the top, reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the beans are very tender, about 11⁄2 hours. Remove bay leaf. Stir in salt.

Let cool slightly then pureé about half of the soup in a blender or food processor until fairly smooth, using caution if the soup is still hot. Return the pureéd soup to the pot and heat through.

Serve the soup garnished with the reserved chopped onion, a dollop of sour cream (or yogurt) and cilantro, if desired.