Chilled Green Pea Bisque with Tarragon, Morels and Dungeness Crab

To make the bisque:

In a soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat and cook the shallots for 5 to 6 minutes, or until tender but not browned. Add the sherry to the pan and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed. Add the peas and broth. Bring the liquid to a slow boil and cook the peas until just tender, about 8 minutes for fresh peas. Stir in the tarragon.

Puree the soup in a blender or food processor or pass through a sieve or food mill.

Stir in the cream and adjust the seasoning with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Chill slightly. Although the title of this soup is "chilled," the French serve it at "cave temperature," which means about 55° F to 60° F. Too cold and you lose all the subtle flavors.

Serve in pretty bowls and garnish with crabmeat, the cooked morels and thin slices of fresh lemon.

To make the morels:

Toss the fresh morels in a bowl of cold water for a few brief seconds to release any sand or debris. Drain and dry them (by tossing around in a dish towel) immediately. Cut in half lengthwise and cut each half into thin strips. Sauté gently in the butter over medium heat until just tender, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until fully absorbed. Season with salt and pepper.

Note: If using dried morels, hydrate the mushrooms in very hot water for about 30 minutes. Remove them from the liquid with your fingers so you don't disturb the sediment that has settled to the bottom. Save the hydrating liquid for other recipes that call for mushroom stock, like a pretty little risotto. Once the morels are hydrated, cut them into strips lengthwise and cook as directed above for fresh morels.