Sogni di Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo. Palms poised over the keyboard, at the ready, bent on saying something pithy, insightful, maybe even flat-out brilliant (how’s the song go -- set my sights on heaven and I wind up on the floor?). I type the word nebbiolo, my mind gets all cluttered, and here I am, Sogni di Nebbioloten minutes later…

But isn’t that the way with things you love? And isn’t it extra appropriate with nebbiolo, pinot’s Italian counterpart? Precocious, enigmatic, ineffable, a kaleidoscope of unfolding nuances, a flower of layered textures and flavors that allude and infer while playing an always unfolding counterpoint of theme and variations. Like great Burgundy, a blessing and a curse. Taste one great bottle and you’ll never be the same, seized with thirst that can placated, but never satisfied. A thirst whose the quenching begets still more – and stronger -- desire.

So. Forget the stab at description, toss any delusion of brilliance. The Accomplice came home with an open bottle of this ridiculously affordable, amazing delicious Barolo from Damilano. Lecinquevigne is, as the name suggests, blended from nebbiolo grown in five distinct townships within the Barolo DOC. You want brilliance? This is it, for a relative song. Meanwhile, take note of the Damilano name. While the family business has roots in the region that go all the way back to the 1890’s, the winery has begun a remarkable renaissance under the management of the family’s fourth generation, Paolo, Mario and Guido Damilano.

Over the past several years, the family have added parcels of some of the most expressive vineyard in Barolo to their holdings, making them a force by sheer dint of the quality and quantity of vines under their control. More important (and impressive) however, is their commitment to expressing the incredible, ineffable place that is Barolo in their wines. The Damilano family feel that having such a stake in the region implies a responsibility and their winemaking philosophy is to do their utmost to render that incredible sense of place in their wines.

Having had an opportunity recently to taste through wines from all the Damilano Crus, the wine in the bottle is without exception a testament that they’re succeeding -- magnificently. Do I think highly of the wines? I’ll put my money where my mouth is… you can bet there’ll be plenty of Damilano wines gracing my cellar, and my table for a long time to come.

 

More about: Barolo, Italian wine, nebbiolo, Piedmont wine

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