Loire-ish, Oregon - ish, De - lish. | PCC Natural Markets

Loire-ish, Oregon - ish, De - lish.

As the six or seven of you who read these occasional scribblings are probably aware, I’m solidly on Herb Quady’s bandwagon. Being more than a little jaded, curmudgeonly and generally hard to impress, that’s saying something, (at least in my little universe it is). Herb’s the real deal, an evolving product of his own intellectual curiosity and the desire to always do your best and do better today than you did yesterday. All of which seem to scarcer and scarcer currency these days.

Ergo, I was stoked when The Accomplice signed us up for a winemaker dinner with Herb at Corkscrew in Portland. Herb’s wines, great food, muy bueno. And it got even better. We arrived to find that Quady North wines weren’t soloing, but were sharing the bill with wines from Leah Jørgenson Cellars. Hmmm, something new, with not so much as a scrap of hearsay by way of a clue. And astoundingly, impressively delicious, as it turned out—not to mention a great dance partner for Herb’s wines. A pleasant prospect, quite franc-ly.

First up was a “blanc de franc” – a blanc of cabernet franc, made with grapes from Herb’s vineyard,  a texture of fine silk walking a tight wire of taut acidity, beautifully creamy and bright at once, a beautiful wine – and not the kind that’s made by lucky accident! Next up, Quady North rosé of cabernet franc, picking up a little texture, just a touch of  weight and a hint of glycerine making a perfect foil for bright red fruit. I’m not a fan of hyperbole, but I don’t mind saying that this wine ranks right up there with some of the most delicious-est rosés I’ve had. Ever. You know that life is good when you want to do the first two courses over again…

Then, a thickening of the plot (while the textures continued on precise, crystalline and racy, but no less generous for it). Jørgensen’s “Tour Rain” a gorgeous, “can I have another glass” rendering of Touraine Rouge, blended of cabernet franc, once again from Herb’s vineyards, and Gamay, from a “sworn secret” source. Amazing, pure gamay, pure franc, dancing so seamlessly as to highlight one another, while impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins… What could possibly follow that – but Quady North cabernet franc? This wine is among my favorite renderings of the grape, showing old world style with the élan of State of Jefferson terroir. Think bright red fruit with that cabernet franc edge, that racy je ne sais quoi, notes of mineral, brush and sweet tobacco that swirl into a texture that just keeps evolving in the glass…

Later on, The Accomplice and I exited into the warm, post – deluge Portland night, a few bottles heavier and plenty impressed. It’s always great to drink Quandy North wines, and a bonus to discover a new favorite. Refreshing to note, too, that far away from the world of ratings-driven, demographically engineered, corporate same-old, same-old,  there are plenty of passionate, curious, independent, character driven producers who are making exciting, vibrant, honest wines that truly reflect the character of the Northwest. And we'll drink to that!

More about: cabernet franc, Oregon wine, wine


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