Revolutions on the (Wine) Frontier
Truth is a good thing. B.S. isn’t. Ergo, a day that brings illumination is a plus in the ledger. Any day that banishes darkness, shatters a myth or three and outs the fallacy of conventional wisdom with an abundant splash of light is a jackpot. Do all that while discovering amazing new wines is downright transcendent. It’s astonishing how much new stuff there is to be found in the Old World. For example…
The mention of any part of the former Yugoslavia has always conjured visions of a gray, barren, cold place. Oppression, gloom, poverty, blah, blah, blah. Guess not. In reality, other than an abandoned checkpoint at the border, there’s nothing that distinguishes Slovenia from the lushness of Friuli except perhaps the road signs announcing directions and names of towns in both Italian and Slovenian. If anything, it gets a little more idyllic, while wine-wise, there’s every bit as much Friuli in Slovenia as in Italy. It just happens to be called Brda, and the names of the grapes undergo an orthographic permutation or two.
Malvasia is a sweet dessert wine from Spain, right? Well, yeah, but it’s also Malvazija, dry, lush, but precise, generous but with the agile tension of that’s typical of white wines from Brda. Brisk acidity makes for tremendously age-worthy wines.
The word tocai, tokay or tocaj brings visions of empty Gallo Tokay bottles littering back alleys on the wrong side of the tracks in my childhood. Skid Row Bourbon. I know better, love tocai, but will never completely lose the downscale connotation that the brothers Gallo’s misappropriation hat wrought. The point is moot, however, as the Hungarian government has successfully lobbied the European union to ban the use of the word “tocai” in any orthography, arguing that consumers may confuse tocai with Hungary’s famous Tokaji sweet wines. Henceforth, look for “Friulano” in Friuli, pinot gris in Alsace, Sauvignonasse in Brda, and so on.
Meanwhile, Gallo’s various permutations of Skid Row Bourbon now bear other names. There are revolutions, there are evolutions…and some things just fade away.