The Heart Has Its Rieslings
Riesling... When well-expressed, there’s really nothing quite like it. How can you capture the magic of a spring day in a few words? Well, you truly can’t. Like the boundless litany of those amazing things that don’t lend themselves to adequate description, those things that German philosopher Kant counted among the sublime, the stuff that leaves puts you in your place and inspires awe, riesling has that un-seizable je ne sais quoi that can prompts sip after sip, as you try wrap your brain and palate around that thing you can’t quite name…
Like a spring day. If it were possible to seize the essence of a spring day and bottle it, you’d have a long, tall, cool bottle of riesling. That breeze-blowing-across-a-meadow freshness, bearing the scent of fresh clover. Fruit that ranges from peaches to apricots to apples to limes, perfectly ripe. But above all, the cool, rocky sweetness of a mountain stream, pure water rushing over stones offering a bracing, stony raciness, bright, sleek, refreshing, good… Easy on the rain cells, too. Until global warming ruins it all, many rieslings, especially German ones, offer a user-friendly alcohol content of less than 11% — sometimes as low as 8%. Meaning you can enjoy a bottle, then another, with brain cells and lucidity intact.
And, that second bottle won’t compromise your retirement or your kid’s college fund. Great riesling, even imported, can be had for an astonishingly modest outlay, especially geven the quality. Start close to home, with Milbrandt vineyards astoundingly delicious dry riesling — a ridiculously affordable $10. Or check out Cor Cellars or Gilbert Cellars rieslings, both stylish, superbly balanced examples of the Washington riesling at its most expressive. Or, experience classic German riesling from the Mosel with Grunhaus QbA — walking a tightrope of lush, generous fruit and dry, minerally raciness.
It’s been said that all wine roads eventually lead back to riesling. Why wait for the road to take you there? Like spring and the heart, riesling tastes of possibility — and like all those roads, the possibilities and the pleasure are virtually endless.