The Real Deal
The real deal. The goods. No, fooling, no bs. There are a whole slough of ways to say it, yet probably not a single good definition. But you sure can tell when you’re in its presence, listening to who-knows-how-many year of accumulated knowledge and observations, walking the rain – soaked rows of a vineyard, tasting wine that’s an inspired alliance of vine, soil and the fruit of the four seasons.
The Accomplice and I pointed the carriage south toward Jacksonville, (Oregon, that is) a few days back for a dinner featuring the uniformly outstanding wines of Quady North, then to spend following day “tromping” with winemaker Herb Quady. As fine a 24 hour stretch as a a pair of generally jaded wine biz folks could ask for.
I’ve discovered over the years that the wines I find to have the most character, the most depth, the most authenticity, are the work of people who are only “winemakers” because the English language doesn’t have a better term for what they do. Rather than “make” wine, they orchestrate it, or “raise” it, as the French would say. Herb Quady says that the “impact of the person” is in the decisions made in response to the variables of vine, soil and climate. Take the voices nature gives and weave it into the most delicious, authentic harmony possible.
It’s a question of character over ego, quality over quantity, and being an all-around reasonable human and doing the right thing. Herb has it wired. You can taste it in the wines – and pretty much guess that they’re scrupulously made, from pruning to bottling.
Start with the rosé (lovely!), made from a designated vineyard block that’s just for pink wine, harvested early and direct-pressed. Or the syrah—syrah that tastes like syrah, sleek, spicy, balanced and delivering the sort of depth you find in the legendary reds of the northern Rhône, albeit with a State of Jefferson accent. Or, better yet, the cabernet franc – real cabernet franc, not some fleshy stand-in for over-the-top cabernet sauvignon. Nope, Herb’s is the real deal, with Chinon-like structure, balanced, focused, edgy energy, notes of red fruits (pomegranates, red currants), tobacco and spice… Impossible to do them justice here (more later, stay tuned), save advising that you take a flyer and treat yourself to what I humbly assert are, without exception, some of the loveliest wine being made in the New World these days.
Oh, and there’s Jacksonville, once the biggest city north of San Francisco -- reincarnated “mighty damned cute” in the estimation of the Accomplice. Until this past weekend, Southern Oregon was that place that I either flew over or drove past on the way to California. Pretty, but pretty much a question mark beyond the off ramps. Just a couple rain-soaked days (highly unusual) had me dusting off my trusty adverb “enchanting” and plotting with the Accomplice to go back. The wine biz is thriving, with some truly exceptional, character-driven wine being produced. We’ll be back. Stay tuned for the sequel.