Words, Wines, Whales and Winning,
I love words. From the cadence of a well – turned phrase, to the absurd randomness of surrealism, to a wicked double-entendre, to a metaphor that keeps on delivering in several dimensions, words can be as delicious to the brain as a good glass of wine is to the senses. How cool is it, then, when the name of a place seduces you like the waft of savory things in the kitchen, delivers in spades on the intrigue – and serves up astounding food and wine, to boot?
La Copine and I got together a few nights ago with some of our favorite Friends in the Wine Business to check out Renée Erickson’s cool new joint on Stone Way. That’s some mighty damned fine food, I tell you, and a wine list nothing shy of brilliant. Perhaps the only problem I could dream up is that it’s nigh on to impossible to choose from lists where everything makes you salivate. Tough, tough decisions, believe me – although we did manage to soldier on...
And then there’s the name. “The Whale Wins” is plenty clever enough on its own, fetching your curiousity with a quirky, not-too-stuck on itself kind of whimsy. It gets your brain a-wonderin’ -- then delivers the aforementioned fine victuals and potables (brilliantly) and keeps right on riffing.
Soooo… If the whale wins, then who loses? Judging from the 18th century era print that hangs in the dining room (and graces the web page), the short end of the stick goes to the whalers. The painting shows a whale shattering a whale boat, tossing occupants and gear aside like so much flotsam and jestsam. Damn, but I love that.
To my way of thinking, the whale represents inspiration and the pure, unabashed goodness of quality, honestly – raised food and wine. The whalers, on the other hand, represent the cyncicism, homogenization, and the drive to commodify pleasure, to turn food and wine and the joys of the table into widgets. The whale is the wine you can only describe in words, while the splintered boat is the 100 point rating system. The soon-to- drown guys and their harpoons are the big, belligerent distributors—the kind who tell you that you hafta have their products to be successful, the ones who’ll tell you that you can’t have a restaurant in Seattle without a bunch of big name Washington wines on the list – while the whale is a wine list that offers wines with soul, with character and a sense of place – and matches them with the foods they actually complement.
I could, as always, go on (and on). But I’ll cut to the end and just say to hell with the harpoons and that my money’s on the whale. And bravo to Renée. We’ll be back. Soon…