Uno día, dos mañanas!
Who can argue with two mornings in one day? Particularly when the first is one of those incomparable Seattle summer mornings that nearly defy description – and the second dawns on you in someplace you’ve never been. A little bleary, a little worse for the wear and the tear, sure. But I get my second (third? fourth?) wind when Conrado, Laine and Jon(athan) are there to meet my new amigas, the dynamic duo of Portlandians Annie and Toni, and me.
In mere moments we’ve mounted our Citroën steed and accelerated onto the autopista, leaving Madrid and a cloud of metaphoric dust in the rearview. All we lack now is sustenance… but we’re not lacking for long, as Jon, ever the prepared Boy Scout soon provideth. Jamon and Sherry, baby. Does it get any better? (Perhaps, but if it does, this’ll do just fine until better gets here.) Sure, prosciutto is pretty fine stuff, but when it comes to ham, jamon is the goods, the acme, the ne plus ultra. Add a glass (or two) of Manzanilla Amontillado, bewitching, yeasty, slightly nutty, a dry hint of sea salt, marine and arid all at once. As close to heaven as you can ask for, on a Tuesday morning. I renew my new year’s vow to drink more sherry.
Until now, my impressions of Spain are a collage of scraps from a few history books, a Hemingway novel or two, synopsis and a few tunes from Carmen, and an old movie version of Man of La Mancha (don’t even ask which one). Pretty standard stuff for an Americano – and quickly re-filed in the fiction stacks of my cabeza as the real thing unfolds in front of my sunglasses.
Think arid, high desert – sort of. It’s hard to say whether it’s more verdant with an arid accent or more arid with strong notes of greenery. Whatever, while it’s essentially a vast mesa, it’s a mesa that’s liberally punctuated with undulations, folds, creases, river valleys and a relief of mountain ranges, sudden, looming granite fortresses. Part Okanagan, part Palouse, part high desert, eastern slope of the Cascades, part Yakima Valley. All stitched together into an expansive, intricate tapestry of terra firma.
Real-time, in-person geography has a way of making you mighty hungry and thirsty. Lucky for us, there are tortillas de patatas¸ that oh-so-satisfying alliance of eggs, olive oil and potatoe-y goodness, that’s as ubiquitous as jamon. And zumo de naranja—the most delicious orange juice I’ve ever had. Anita Bryant eat your heart out. This ain’t the Texaco off the interstate, and we’re sure as heck not in Kansas anymore, Toto. Café all around and we’re good to go. The morning is still young, and the day’s vino is still down the road a stretch. Onward!