February 14, 2013 at 03:47 PM â€” Wine Guy
Imagine the tangy kiss of sea breeze on a cool day, threaded with a flinty, chalky note of wet rocks and a racy splash of citrus, the spine-tingling lazer brightness softened with a drop of clover honey and a soft, high harmony of meadow grass. Make it liquid, with the bracing freshness of icy seawater and a texture that’s rich with tangy fruit, sleek and lean at once. Pour, sip, let the spine-tingling, hair-on-the-arms-raising, make-you-wince shudder of all that finely focused freshness seize you by the palate and shake you. Repeat, add seafood, poultry, a nicely aged cheese, a gratin, fresh greens…or, of course, oysters. That’s livin’…
It’s an incomparable, inimitable pleasure. And, given all that goodness, a shockingly inexpensive one. Like Chablis, Riesling, Rosé or Beaujolais, Muscadet suffers from a reputation tarnished by producers who’ve flooded the market with oceans of mediocre bulk wine bearing the Muscadet name. Meaning that some of the region’s most expressive, small-production wines can be had for less than $20.
A case in point is the gorgeous Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine from Pierre – Henri Gadais, who farms two vineyards in the commune of Saint - Fiacre. The wine is pure Muscadet, vivid raciness wrapped in the softness of a Spring day. The 2011 vintage wears the estate’s mid – 1950’s label, a classic, and a reminder that truly great things are timeless. An investment of a mere $13.75 at your favorite PCC puts one of these beauties in your shopping basket, right alongside the fresh tuna, the produce, the bread and a perfectly piquant wedge of cheese….