PCC blog

Revolutions on the (Wine) Frontier



Truth is a good thing. B.S. isn’t. Ergo, a day that brings illumination is a plus in the ledger. Any day that banishes darkness, shatters a myth or three and outs the fallacy of conventional wisdom with an abundant splash of light is a jackpot. Do all that while discovering amazing new wines is downright transcendent. It’s astonishing how much new stuff there is to be found in the Old World. For example… 

The mention of any part of the former Yugoslavia has always conjured visions of a gray, barren, cold place. Oppression, gloom, poverty, blah, blah, blah. Guess not. In reality, other than an abandoned checkpoint at the border, there’s nothing that distinguishes Slovenia from the lushness of Friuli except perhaps the road signs announcing directions and names of towns in both Italian and Slovenian. If anything, it gets a little more idyllic, while wine-wise, there’s every bit as much Friuli in Slovenia as in Italy. It just happens to be called Brda, and the names of the grapes undergo an orthographic permutation or two.

 Malvasia is a sweet dessert wine from Spain, right? Well, yeah, but it’s also Malvazija, dry, lush, but precise, generous but with the agile tension of that’s typical of white wines from Brda. Brisk acidity makes for tremendously age-worthy wines.

 The word tocai, tokay or tocaj brings visions of empty Gallo Tokay bottles littering back alleys on the wrong side of the tracks in my childhood. Skid Row Bourbon. I know better, love tocai, but will never completely lose the downscale connotation that the brothers Gallo’s misappropriation hat wrought. The point is moot, however, as the Hungarian government has successfully lobbied the European union to ban the use of the word “tocai” in any orthography, arguing that consumers may confuse tocai with Hungary’s famous Tokaji sweet wines. Henceforth, look for “Friulano” in Friuli, pinot gris in Alsace, Sauvignonasse in Brda, and so on.

 Meanwhile, Gallo’s various permutations of Skid Row Bourbon now bear other names.  There are revolutions, there are evolutions…and some things just fade away.

 

More about: dessert wine, Italian wine

Four sweet ways to beat the heat

It's happening, folks: a stretch of hot, sunny Seattle weather that's actually starting *before* the fourth of July. This is a rare event indeed, and calls for celebration on all fronts. We suggest the following fun ways to beat the heat!

1. Make homemade popsicles


My take on peach-raspberry popsicles ready to pop into the freezer!

Wondering what to do with all those strawberries you just picked, the organic blueberries you snagged at PCC, that swiftly ripening pineapple on your kitchen counter? Try these easy recipes from the Sound Consumer and swoon. For those of you who prefer step-by-step instruction, check out my attempt (and victory) here.

2. Make one of these three inventive ice cream sandwiches

Need we say more? Find the recipes here from our July issue of PCC Taste magazine, now available in all PCC locations.

3. Make a giant strawberry ice cream sandwich

Are those dainty ice cream sandwiches just too small for your liking? Try Chef Lynne Vea's easy recipe for a GIANT ice cream sandwich you can share with your neighbors.

4. Make a fresh rhubarb ice cream cake

Savor the last of spring rhubarb and our wonderfully sweet local strawberries with this lovely (and simple) dessert.

No matter what, from all of us at PCC, have fun getting your vitamin D this weekend!

More about: desserts, ice cream, summer

Sparkling on the Wine Frontier



Make a wish, you never know…

 We’re a little bleary. A little worse for the wear and the tear. Thirsty, too. 12 hours, two airplanes and 9 time zones later, we hit the autostrada, Slovenia – bound. Suddenly, right about the point where the Veneto segues to Friuli, I’m seized with a strange new jones…ribolla gialla. Strange --but fortuitous. “Dang, but I’d sure like a glass of ribolla” I exclaim to Joshua and The Accomplice. “Well, I think you’re in the right place” replies Joshua. Yup, whether Friuli or across the border in Brda, we’re heading for ribolla gialla paradise. As the lush countryside flies by, I’m savoring the thought of nutty, floral, lush-but-brightly focused, cool goodness. “The only thing better than ribolla, would be ribolla with bubbles” I announce to my companions. Which might not be quite so easy, I imagine. Still…


An hour later, all checked in to the hotel, I step downstairs to meet Joshua for a little sip of something, before we head off to dinner with Aleks and Marina. Surveying the scene on the terrace, I spy an empty bottle of something sparkling at a just-vacated table. Peneca Rebula Brut, the label simply states (rebula is Slovenian for ribolla). “Hey look” I tell Joshua, pointing at the bottle. “Crazy, huh?” Of course we have to try it. We sit, order a bottle, half expecting to be underwhelmed. Instead, we’re pleasantly amazed – it’s delicious, refreshing – and astonishingly inexpensive. Who needs Prosecco? This is way better – not to mention cool as all get-out (a little prosciutto on the side, and we’re talking paradise). Best yet, by noon tomorrow, we’ll have found the source – with just time and paperwork standing between a thirsty wish and sparkling ribolla in Seattle. 

More about: Sparkling wine

The Heart Has Its Rieslings


Riesling... When well-expressed, there’s really nothing quite like it. How can you capture the magic of a Spring day in a few words? Well, you truly can’t. Like the boundless litany of those amazing things that don’t lend themselves to adequate description, those things that German philosopher Kant counted among the sublime, the stuff that leaves puts you in your place and inspires awe,  riesling has that un-seizable je ne sais quoi that can prompts sip after sip, as you try wrap your brain and palate around that thing you can’t quite name…

 Like a spring day. If it were possible to seize the essence of a Spring day and bottle it, you’d have a long, tall, cool bottle of riesling. That breeze-blowing-across-a-meadow freshness, bearing the scent of fresh clover. Fruit that ranges from peaches to apricots to apples to limes, perfectly ripe. But above all, the cool, rocky sweetness of a mountain stream, pure water rushing over stones offering a bracing, stony raciness, bright, sleek, refreshing, good… Easy on the rain cells, too. Until global warming ruins it all, many rieslings, especially German ones, offer a user-friendly alchol content of less than 11%--sometimes as low as 8%. Meaning you can enjoy a bottle, then another, with brain cells and lucidity intact.

 And, that second bottle won’t compromise your retirement or your kid’s college fund. Great riesling, even imported, can be had for an astonishingly modest outlay, especially geven the quality. Start close to home, with Milbrandt vineyards astoundingly delicious dry riesling – a ridiculously affordable $10. Or check out Cor Cellars or Gilbert Cellars rieslings, both stylish, superbly balanced examples of the Washington riesling at its most expressive. Or, experience classic German riesling from the Mosel with Grunhaus QbA – walking a tightrope of lush, generous fruit and dry, minerally raciness.

 It’s been said that all wine roads eventually lead back to riesling. Why wait for the road to take you there? Like spring and the heart, riesling tastes of possibility – and like all those roads, the possibilities and the pleasure are virtually endless.




More about: riesling, Washington, wine

Remember Zin?




Remember Zinfandel? Way back when, before it became hip, then un – hip, then hip again? When it was both an in-the-know bargain and a not-so-well-kept secret, inexpensive and a pleasure to drink because it was anything but polished and precious? Before Helen Turley raised the bar of flat-out wrongness with her single vineyard, über polished, über extracted, über oaked FrankenZin monstrosities? Cool, wasn’t it? 

That was back in the day when Sonoma was cool, because it hadn’t yet been Napa-fied and Parkerized, those good old days when it was like Napa was twenty or thirty years before then, even before Napa itself got Napa-fied.  

Ah heck. The good old days. In what must be a sure sign of  impending geezerhood, the list of things that just ain’t quite the same, as delicious, as real, as honest, as straightforward or full of manufactured malarkey seems to grow by the day. So it never fails to make my day when I encounter California wines – especially from Napa and Sonoma that haven’t succumbed to the homogenization, Parkerization, commodification and corporate dumbing-down that are the hallmarks of the “industry” these days.  

Like the Pedroncellis, a bona-fide, old-school, Sonoma County Italian family that’s been growing grapes and making wine in the Dry Creek Valley since 1927. It’s a winery that’s about anything but flash and glamour. No full-page ads in the wine Spectator, no faux Villa, no slick label design, no fussiness, no upward mobility wanna-be and no wizardry. Just a lineup that’s packed, from top to bottom with wines that are sturdy, well-built, easy-to-drink and made to go with food that’s similarly delicious. They’re just plain good –and made for everyday sort of people to drink, everyday. 

Like their Zin, a textbook example of old-fangled, honest-to-goodness Dry Creek Zinfandel at its best. Bright and spicy, briary fruit just edging toward jamminess, but not quite. Notes of blackberries, raspberries and a suggestion of black pepper, medium-bodied and lively, balanced, juicy and just plain deliciously easy to drink. At a mere $16-ish dollars the bottle, it’s also mighty easy on the pocketbook – just the way Zin used to– and ought to be.



More about: wine, Zinfandel

Bow Down to (the real) Washington

 

 

For those of you who don’t’ frequent the local bastions of big box grocery, you probably haven’t seen the obligatory displays of 14 Hands, Ch. Ste. Michelle, Sagelands, Hogue or Columbia Crest that serve to proclaim that it’s Washington Wine Month.  That’s right folks, it’s that time again, once more with feeling, as we rally the troops and drum up sales by celebrating the fact that way up here in the left hand corner, we’ve got it all. Anything California can do, we can (and shall) do too.

 

 

 That’s right. We can “make” wine. Take Washington grapes and make ‘em danged near indistinguishable from that Cali stuff. We can drop big dough on barrel regimens (a million bucks a year at one well-funded joint), get our grapes lip and gob-smacking ripe, polish our tannins as slick and smooth as Kenny G’s vibrato and boldly price our little start-up ventures with the best of the brazen. All that, and (unfortunately) not a lot in the bottle that says “Washington” except the fine print on the label. 

Don’t get me wrong. It’s not that I’m not crazy about Washington wine, when it’s Washington wine. Unfortunately, the spendy, trendy stuff that usually gets the press isn’t so much about what Washington tastes like as hat it takes to keep up with the Turleys, the Caymuses, the Opuses and the Screaming Eagles (Egos). What’s too commonly accepted as Washington “style” is usually not much more than a fairly well rendered California knock-off, at a correspondingly staggering tariff. Well, I’ve been to California a time or two, had a few bottles of vino from down that way, and I’m here to tell you, this isn’t there and that ain’t what Washington tastes like. 

Now for the good news. Washington Wine’s best days are yet to come. Already, there are plenty (and counting) of honest-to-goodness, made-at-the-47th-parallel wines that are an authentic expression of Washington fruit and terroir — which is to say that they actually taste like “here.” Even better, they tend to be made by modest people who care about putting something balanced in the bottle, making wines that play well with food, wines that refresh, that invite a second or third glass and that can be had at a price that makes sense for everyday people to drink every day. (Imagine, wines that go out of their way to be good, unpretentious, and that don’t require membership in a cult, a club or the 1% to buy!)

More and more, wine drinkers are discovering the incredible elegance and character that Washington wines can express, taking advantage of the natural acidity that’s possible with our warm days and cool nights, the diversity of soils and microclimates, as well as our state’s many and unique terroirs. Without the cloak of new oak and overripeness that the Parker panderers prize, these wines dance on the palate, and pair well with the dazzling, delicious array of foods in the local larder. Best yet, without the expense of new French oak cooperage and the surfeit of ego generally required to lay one’s wines at the feet of the Advocate, these humbly delicious wines are also quite affordable! Enjoy the art of the state — the best is waiting to be discovered, unrated and off the beaten path.

 

 

 

More about: local wine, Washington, wine

Seconds, please!



Thursday Miscellany. Please attempt this at home… 

A lovely time (and dinner!) was had by a couple weeks back at Ray’s Boathouse with Herb Quady of Quady North Winery and Kay Simon and Clay Mackey of Chinook Wines, with another 50 friends getting in on the conviviality. It wasn’t just great food and wine(duh!), but a chance to taste well-balanced, elegant, soulful, honest wines from two quite different regions as well as two accomplished, non-interventionist, diverse wine-making styles.  
 
Each course’s pairing of two glasses showed the wines in an incredible food context, made even more brilliant by the stylistic contrast between the two wineries. First was Chinook Chardonnay and Quady North “Pistoleta” (a Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier Blend). Pure Chardonnay fruit , highlighting bright notes of apple and a clean, crisp richness without any gratuitous, over-the-top weight to distract from its bold, but elegant purity – its dancing-on-point grace contrasting with the deeper, satiny lushness of peachy fruit of the Pistoleta, its muscular fruit dancing on acidity-driven agility, accented by an undercurrent of stony coolness (cool stoniness)and hints of fir-infused balsamico.
 
Course two: a study in pink, two 2011 roses of Cabernet Franc, drinking fabulously a year and a half after vintage. By now, a definite theme was showing itself,  the Chinook rosé’s bright rainier and bing cherry fruit infused with spice and brush and showing a graceful but muscular femininity, while the Quady North shows darker cherries with a splash of huckleberry zing and the coolness of river rocks and evergreen forest – cooler, darker, more mountainous tones.
 
Course three, the main event, the pièce de résistance  and the coda to the building intensity supplied by the previous two featured yet another Cabernet Franc duo – two distinctly different iterations that showed power and finesse in completely different shades.
 
Feminine, the melody in the violas and cellos -- alto voices and tenors, with violins carrying the soprano part in counterpoint, lively cherry fruit seemingly bearing the brightness of a Yakima summer’s day and a suggestion of wild, aromatic, sun-kissed green brush in every sip. The Quady North was all the more masculine in comparison, tenor notes of the cellos trading melodic lines with the basses, playing arco. Darker cherry fruit, laced with notes of tobacco and an evergreen – tinged savory accent.
 
And so on. While I could spew an endless stream of adjectival puffery, why take my word for it? Reading the notes always takes a back seat to practical experience. Why let me have all the fun, when you can do it yourself? You can easily build three different dinners around the three pairs of wine described above. Add a few friends, a little home cooking and voila! Life is good, isn’t it?
 
 


 

 

More about: cabernet franc, local wine, Oregon wine, wine

Muscadet!


 

Imagine the tangy kiss of sea breeze on a cool day, threaded with a flinty, chalky note of wet rocks and a racy splash of citrus, the spine-tingling lazer brightness softened with a drop of clover honey and a soft, high harmony of meadow grass. Make it liquid, with the bracing freshness of icy seawater and a texture that’s rich with tangy fruit, sleek and lean at once. Pour, sip, let the spine-tingling, hair-on-the-arms-raising, make-you-wince shudder of all that finely focused freshness seize you by the palate and shake you. Repeat, add seafood, poultry, a nicely aged cheese, a gratin, fresh greens…or, of course, oysters. That’s livin’…
 
It’s an incomparable, inimitable pleasure. And, given all that goodness, a shockingly inexpensive one. Like Chablis, Riesling, Rosé or Beaujolais, Muscadet suffers from a reputation tarnished by producers who’ve flooded the market with oceans of mediocre bulk wine bearing the Muscadet name. Meaning that some of the region’s most expressive, small-production wines can be had for less than $20.
 
A case in point is the gorgeous Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine from Pierre – Henri Gadais, who farms two vineyards in the commune of Saint - Fiacre. The wine is pure Muscadet, vivid raciness wrapped in the softness of a Spring day. The 2011 vintage wears the estate’s mid – 1950’s label, a classic, and a reminder that truly great things are timeless. An investment of a mere $13.75 at your favorite PCC puts one of these beauties in your shopping basket, right alongside the fresh tuna, the produce, the bread and a perfectly piquant wedge of cheese….

More about: French wine, white wine, wine

A Chardonnay Kinda Day?



It’s not that I don’t like chardonnay… It’s just that the mere word has about the same effect as “muzak” on my gray matter. It’s the Mantovani, the Kenny G, the Barry Manilow of grapes. Not to mention that there are a gazillion exciting, diverse, delectable, different other wonderful white wines to be had and enjoyed. Which isn’t to say that there aren’t lovely, terroir-driven chardonnays, but who really wants to listen to the same band or read the same writer over and over again, anyway?
 
Still, we try never to say never and I’m always one to seek out the exception to any rule. Opportunity presented itself a few evenings ago, as The Accomplice and I were puzzling over the daily “what shall we drink” dilemma, I spied a bottle of Aldo Conterno “Bussiador” chardonnay ’05 in the rack. Hmmmm. Could be time to drink that one up, we agreed.
 
First pour, first sip, it seemed as if we were catching a glimpse of a fading star, hints of its former glory fading into caramelly richness, with just barely enough acidity to keep it together. At first. But as it aired, notes of lemon curd, white flowers and what Throckmorton refers to as “Bit o’Honey” (in a really good way) began to emerge. Nice. This could be good…
 
Moments later there magically appeared, tucked discreetly behind a bunch of kale. a bottle of ’05 Jarvis chardonnay, stashed away to chill a couple months ago then forgotten. While neither The Accomplice nor yr. obedient correspondent have a particular jones for spendy California chardonnay, who were we to argue with the fine academic opportunity offered by this pair of spendy, mature chardonnays?
 
It was crazy stuff, the nose more reminiscent of riesling than chardonnay (especially chardonnay from the Golden State). Aromas of apricots and petrol had the palate had the sensory table for sweet wine, then delivered a dry, silky, unctuous-but-focused rendering of ripe fruit. Still-lively acidity made all that richness dance.
 
Both wines continued to open and evolve over the next couple hours, showing greater clarity, complexity and finesse as they aired. By evening’s end, they had fully blossomed into gorgeous examples of one grape rendered in two markedly contrasting styles.
 
Moral of the story? Just say “yes” – even to chardonnay. And don’t forget to eat your kale.

More about: chardonnay, Italian wine, white wine

A beautiful (local) world.



I’ve been meaning to read “A River Runs Through It” for a good long time. Tony Dollar came to the rescue with the gift of a copy recently, and I was hooked by the second paragraph. It’s a damned fine book, just plain lovely, written in the no b.s. prose of someone who loves the language and uses it like a treasured old hand tool – something for accomplishing a task, and not for showing off or puffing up one’s own ego.

Speaking of bulls**t, the following quote brings to mind the way the big boys play in the wine biz these day – something that’s been on my mind more than a little of late.

“Paul opened the trunk of the car and counted out eight bottles of beer. He said to Neal “Four for you and four for us. We’ll sink two of them in each of the next two holes for you. They’ll make you forget the heat.” He told them where we would bury the bottles and then he should have thought before he told them he would hide our beer in the two following holes where we would be fishing on our way back from the cliffs.”

“What a beautiful world it once was. At least a river of it was. And it was almost mine and my family’s and just a few others’ who wouldn’t steal beer. You could leave beer to cool in the river and when you got back it would be so cold it wouldn’t foam much. It would be a beer made in the next town if the town were ten thousand or over. So it was either Kessler beer made in Helena or Highlander beer made in Missoula that we left to cool in the Blackfoot River. What a wonderful world it was once when all the beer wasn’t made in Milwaukee, Minneapolis or St. Louis.”

And so it goes. Whether it’s the beer biz or the wine biz, these days it’s dominated by large, deep-pocketed, hard-nosed corporations whose means of competing is not to offer better value or service, but to amass all the products and force the competition out of business by any means necessary. One of the Gallo brothers once summed it up quite succinctly: “We don’t want market share, we want it all.”

The idea that the “end justifies the means” never quite took with me, and it’s a notion I’ve come to associate with large corporations and the sort of manifest destiny,  scorched earth manner in which they do business. It’s global, it’s winner-takes-all, and it’s anything but local. On the other hand, I’ve come to define local as anything, from  anywhere, that celebrates people, place, passion and that old-fangled idea of character – not to mention a good shot of integrity and a sense of fair play. Local is anyplace where a handshake means more than a thousand lawyers.

So there. Here’s to tasty beverages that don’t want to be everything to everybody, nor conquer the world. And to families, farmers, fairness, and so forth. Let’s drink to that!

More about: beer, local wine, wine

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